tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3104343505266034202024-03-18T22:46:06.865-05:00ReflectionsA place to reflect on life, faith, family, friends and interests that keep me refreshed.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.comBlogger115125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-56619836110747238412013-09-28T15:03:00.001-05:002013-09-28T15:03:48.703-05:00Hand Dyed Values of Rug Hooking Wool<b>Transitions of Color</b>
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I've been having fun experimenting with acid dyeing wool fabric from Woolrich lately and am loving the results. This is the <b>Wandering Method</b> in 4 values over 1/4 yard each piece. These are long quarters cut along the length of the fabric so that there is no stretch when hooking rugs. I'm calling this one Buttered Rum and offering the whole lot, 1 yard total, for $52.00. Or, if you need less of each color, I will sell in 1/8 yard pieces of each value or total of 1/2 yard for $26.00. Or one long quarter, one value, for $13.00; state which value: 1, 2, 3 or 4.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMs6gBVwHj9QUoq1Rw-J9gzeWOy-xGZkObywn5HOuMVP0iVFSNuMKQW1Y6n1dznkRTfxwCpoglKS3Evuy7lUsUm5VLjPnwsObHJiGWrjTyf3F6NcRhOWjOEspWpiik2UmUtPzqacINSe7S/s1600/dyed-wool-09-28-2013-wandering-buttered-rum.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMs6gBVwHj9QUoq1Rw-J9gzeWOy-xGZkObywn5HOuMVP0iVFSNuMKQW1Y6n1dznkRTfxwCpoglKS3Evuy7lUsUm5VLjPnwsObHJiGWrjTyf3F6NcRhOWjOEspWpiik2UmUtPzqacINSe7S/s320/dyed-wool-09-28-2013-wandering-buttered-rum.jpg" /></a>
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<b>Value 1</b>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAgMhCV7ndYh5u4l8-9clb2IekDAlFvsc66fgYnWVb2aF3KkUUoe6LfrTBQmzi2gyQQkGxDu8EZ8HkkRlr1e2D1jz7iZ4XNj33vawo8Yzmz240gThbHhBpnSVfWVDA0Eckt_7Ud07djaIb/s1600/dyed-wool-09-28-2013-wandering-buttered-rum-value-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAgMhCV7ndYh5u4l8-9clb2IekDAlFvsc66fgYnWVb2aF3KkUUoe6LfrTBQmzi2gyQQkGxDu8EZ8HkkRlr1e2D1jz7iZ4XNj33vawo8Yzmz240gThbHhBpnSVfWVDA0Eckt_7Ud07djaIb/s320/dyed-wool-09-28-2013-wandering-buttered-rum-value-1.jpg" /></a>
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<b>Value 2</b>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrSxQOkQtg-KUxZVCQxeaFUVQTSXrhQ85f4ztp4pHjVXE6IBPaPUi-fXBYrNtXlIHu44buaL9bZISDF1zjOOB6m_yxTVUF0R2_Z5UaSo-RbIhxBNzHBr481dDJ5_yuQo7pJTS8J9Xbl0jL/s1600/dyed-wool-09-28-2013-wandering-buttered-rum-value-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrSxQOkQtg-KUxZVCQxeaFUVQTSXrhQ85f4ztp4pHjVXE6IBPaPUi-fXBYrNtXlIHu44buaL9bZISDF1zjOOB6m_yxTVUF0R2_Z5UaSo-RbIhxBNzHBr481dDJ5_yuQo7pJTS8J9Xbl0jL/s320/dyed-wool-09-28-2013-wandering-buttered-rum-value-2.jpg" /></a>
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<b>Value 3</b>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDO2PWV4HJ7oh0wWGd7Pq1d0wWBoGGrXdcwOu5Q-xrB220fDXEKHOsm2OesvN-OSxPqGNOmDBec4LhsSNr39UOp-0FqWnQrLXZag-MeMuyLvBpOPQRYA-SQsc9dyW8TZVeV4Cgx9Y5APyn/s1600/dyed-wool-09-28-2013-wandering-buttered-rum-value-3.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgDO2PWV4HJ7oh0wWGd7Pq1d0wWBoGGrXdcwOu5Q-xrB220fDXEKHOsm2OesvN-OSxPqGNOmDBec4LhsSNr39UOp-0FqWnQrLXZag-MeMuyLvBpOPQRYA-SQsc9dyW8TZVeV4Cgx9Y5APyn/s320/dyed-wool-09-28-2013-wandering-buttered-rum-value-3.jpg" /></a>
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<b>Value 4</b>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQkXsZdrPTmx1Ak4bM2PV1jR69kwTrj7L88XpSIDiIvUqfXVpkMbJNa71hdaJIpNkDuWvUU2uClloLHQQmitWBZgRjxjqCN5Pv7LNjhdnDAc78hxyfbKzJtX0iV9Ye0GLuUzbC5mquaFR/s1600/dyed-wool-09-28-2013-wandering-buttered-rum-value-4.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzQkXsZdrPTmx1Ak4bM2PV1jR69kwTrj7L88XpSIDiIvUqfXVpkMbJNa71hdaJIpNkDuWvUU2uClloLHQQmitWBZgRjxjqCN5Pv7LNjhdnDAc78hxyfbKzJtX0iV9Ye0GLuUzbC5mquaFR/s320/dyed-wool-09-28-2013-wandering-buttered-rum-value-4.jpg" /></a>Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-743189103848465202013-08-06T15:19:00.000-05:002013-08-06T15:19:01.950-05:00Canada GeeseThis is a project I finished about 1-1/2 years ago for my husband's 65th birthday. We both love Canada geese and often take a ride on one of his motorcycles up the Natchez Trace on what we call a goose hunt. Late afternoon, we often see them feeding and sometimes with babies. We love the fact that they mate for life and when we see two, we will say, "there's a married couple" or in the case of odd numbers, an old bachelor. We've enjoyed this hand hooked pillowed and it is currently residing on our bed. Hooked in a size 4 cut of mostly hand dyed (by me) wool. The back and cording were dyed at the same time as most of the blue in the water. Lenny Feenan, <a href="http://www.theburningartist.com">The Burning Artist</a> drew the pattern for me. It was a pleasure to hook.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xs0XxhcteS9AhAKUTyqdJit6pifsQ5swytdXyrs0QEQWL1vikW47V6zPmi4k55v9vZpfTS23qtn7DpuNqRF9YhA6LKvVHGIruKdoWvFKyhOinuRrO-Y7dBkpThPCPoeXk10WbBqyIEex/s1600/canada-geese-12.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7xs0XxhcteS9AhAKUTyqdJit6pifsQ5swytdXyrs0QEQWL1vikW47V6zPmi4k55v9vZpfTS23qtn7DpuNqRF9YhA6LKvVHGIruKdoWvFKyhOinuRrO-Y7dBkpThPCPoeXk10WbBqyIEex/s320/canada-geese-12.jpg" /></a>Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-80302145848861952742013-08-05T13:09:00.000-05:002013-08-05T13:10:15.950-05:00Hello After a Long Break!I was sure that it had been some time since I had posted to my blog and was I ever right! Retirement has been a lot busier than I ever imagined! Thank you all for your patience while I have taken a break. I seemed to have gotten more interested in rug hooking than weaving in the last few years but I vow to get back to weaving and even some dyeing - maybe not cellulose/plant fibers such as cotton, rayon and tencel; I have become quite interested in dyeing wool fabric for my own hooking and it may be, down the road, that I offer some wool fabric and yarn for sale. But, for now, I am enjoying the learning process.
On a personal note, we have a new four-legged member in our family, Petey Belle. He is a merle cockapoo and as of August 3, he is 4 months old. He just completed obedience school and obeys most of the time. Hopefully, maturity will help obedience. (;
Here are a few pictures of him. I promise in some upcoming posts to do some 'show and tell' of my rug hooking and even one woven piece. (I must put something on the loom!)
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipGrpFjYIojfE-nL8wOcU6l3VSJgEFJ11UHl77ZUD5XIpzYclmMnu-MHy07DFL7n9Z6K6cOxHviwoi8EOQu9TwI-1f_kU8r6abLHWbr94kq2d8O1lAXI0sAirQ-D_vh69i4pPGYUgkc6XC/s1600/petey-belle-08032013.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEipGrpFjYIojfE-nL8wOcU6l3VSJgEFJ11UHl77ZUD5XIpzYclmMnu-MHy07DFL7n9Z6K6cOxHviwoi8EOQu9TwI-1f_kU8r6abLHWbr94kq2d8O1lAXI0sAirQ-D_vh69i4pPGYUgkc6XC/s320/petey-belle-08032013.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDvU2QtTQJEhfPVhvkU7Q9ZhuI3T4seY81yR6mRBd-3hoQWFpqg5Z_RGqJAeSrWibp7SNl_MMbxy2hlgrBjIhs-WnV98mGp_5k-ZD1-YMXBEJjIA2iVYqm7P09cBfL68rM9-aU2Zy7fSBB/s1600/petey-belle-072613-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDvU2QtTQJEhfPVhvkU7Q9ZhuI3T4seY81yR6mRBd-3hoQWFpqg5Z_RGqJAeSrWibp7SNl_MMbxy2hlgrBjIhs-WnV98mGp_5k-ZD1-YMXBEJjIA2iVYqm7P09cBfL68rM9-aU2Zy7fSBB/s320/petey-belle-072613-6.jpg" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNpeW6s-R0DzFjW4v5mvT7FiAHoy782f67pBk2NMifIIRGcrBKeMUfWF5v9Nw_GW5VtFWbEhADfLBZGBvb4W7OOaMrZe3OWFKXq0ia84RaSOH5xaf1JPu8nvqILAXhAc3WUot4A5CieqxA/s1600/petey-belle-072513-6.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNpeW6s-R0DzFjW4v5mvT7FiAHoy782f67pBk2NMifIIRGcrBKeMUfWF5v9Nw_GW5VtFWbEhADfLBZGBvb4W7OOaMrZe3OWFKXq0ia84RaSOH5xaf1JPu8nvqILAXhAc3WUot4A5CieqxA/s320/petey-belle-072513-6.jpg" /></a></div>Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-33961162643735613492011-10-09T20:31:00.000-05:002011-10-09T20:35:33.787-05:00A Memorable WeekendWe had a wonderful weekend with musician friends with whom Don worked off and on for many years. Some came from Kansas City, MO, Cleveland, Ohio and Mobile, Alabama. We met everyone at a local restaurant on Friday night and then again on Saturday about noon in order to set up music equipment and rehearse. There were approximately 20 musicians there. Not all played but so good to see them all. There were about 150 guests there. Some have attended every time this group of friends has gotten together to play and visit. Each year, we are afraid might be the last we see some as all are getting older and some in poor health. One came (and sung) who we had not seen since 1975. What a joy to renew an old acquaintance and meet his family. Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-56792491939273114022011-09-06T12:14:00.001-05:002011-09-06T12:17:26.057-05:00Winding a Skein into a BallRemove and save the label for sett suggestions or gauge. Open up the skein. Ideally, you will own an umbrella swift and ball winder and these instructions are assuming you do.
Insure that the skein is not twisted, then place the skein on the swift bringing the swift up to meet the circumference of the skein. Locate the beginning/end of the yarn; this is where the beginning and end were tied together. Cut this loop (last) and the remaining tie-bands off the skein. Caution: This step should not be done prior to placing the skein on the swift.
Wind off a couple of rounds to see if the yarn is going to feed evenly and insert the end into the ball winder and wind into a center pull ball. If the yarn seems like it is tangled, it is probably just a kink in that spot. Resist the temptation of weaving in and out as it misaligns the yarn. Usually, if you will give the yarn a little pop close to the skein, it will loosen the kink and you can proceed to wind into a center-pull ball.
If you are using a hand dyed yarn and using more than one skein, lay one skein on top of the other to insure the color is running the same direction. Then, be sure you wind in the same color order.
Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-52070055769358353702011-09-05T12:53:00.000-05:002011-09-05T12:53:04.876-05:00Publishing with New LaptopIf you are a follower, you might have noticed that I posted approximately 30 pages in the last few days. Most are from my old website which presently resides on my old desktop. We are in the process of clearing the harddrive and I will be posting from my new laptop. I could not publish from the laptop and hopefully, this change to the new blogger interface that Kim recommended will help.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-28847122984796337072011-09-04T21:03:00.005-05:002011-09-04T21:48:48.190-05:00Mother Bunny and Bunny LoveThanks for bearing with me while I transfer files from my former website to blogger. There will be many files that I hope will be helpful to weavers.
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<br />In addition, here are the latest rug hooking projects I finished and gave to my sister-in-law who loves bunnies. They were designed by Karen Kahle of <a href="http://primitivespiritrugs.com">Primitive Spirit Rugs</a> and were a lot of fun and fast to hook.
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG4jbhyphenhyphenm33sP0sfuFKnjAJec36J5q89TOftdWmosJDHwsT05NrJld5CvM6D26a9_ROQdAnh9OsGVz1sssptLnVQI8NJogzBoQkZc_l-7SgnyZPj78EMfWukuZqeYzeRvSAcMKcIuxpwtV6/s1600/mother-bunny.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 253px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG4jbhyphenhyphenm33sP0sfuFKnjAJec36J5q89TOftdWmosJDHwsT05NrJld5CvM6D26a9_ROQdAnh9OsGVz1sssptLnVQI8NJogzBoQkZc_l-7SgnyZPj78EMfWukuZqeYzeRvSAcMKcIuxpwtV6/s320/mother-bunny.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648693409716263810" /></a>
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<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2XIDSV7a6VxLW9YSvOOk-vkbFXgEOjM8N2BQs0Ri63AuMRdgVdPJAYAKxj8EQW3INwrOd9cYAev6otIXV__bN0ptYyKiDXXj7vt5pP-TD_6WXogffn2mEAEXm-pVymizMDB6KPq4BnnSo/s1600/bunny-love.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 320px; height: 254px; float: left; cursor: pointer;" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648691064431236034" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2XIDSV7a6VxLW9YSvOOk-vkbFXgEOjM8N2BQs0Ri63AuMRdgVdPJAYAKxj8EQW3INwrOd9cYAev6otIXV__bN0ptYyKiDXXj7vt5pP-TD_6WXogffn2mEAEXm-pVymizMDB6KPq4BnnSo/s320/bunny-love.jpg" /></a>
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<br />Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-33184309251988625432011-09-04T14:18:00.006-05:002011-09-05T09:14:41.167-05:00Knitting or Weaving Yarn?I have often heard yarns referred to as knitting yarns or weaving yarns. I've heard it said that yarns on a cone are weaving yarns and yarns on a skein or ball are knitting yarns; that stretchy yarns should not be used for weaving; that knitting yarns are pre-washed and weaving yarns are not pre-washed. An educated guess is that a dyed yarn has been pre-washed.<br /><br />It can certainly be confusing but the truth is that none of these factors define a knitting or weaving yarn. These are only conditions of the yarn that should be considered before knitting or weaving a project.<br /><br />If you are in doubt of whether a yarn will make a good knitting or weaving yarn, first consider how you will use it. For example, a stretchy yarn might not make the best warp. But, it might be used for example. Or, if in doubt, and you want to use the yarn, use it as weft.<br /><br />If you are using a hand dyed yarn, consider that it has been fulled some and sett it closer than a mill dyed yarn. If knitting, knit a swatch with 3 to 4 sized needles and wash the swatch to determine the needle size to use for the finished product.<br /><br />In addition to how you will use it, consider the qualities you want in the finished product. Would you like a scarf that is lightweight or heavy, warm or cool accessory, nice drape or very light? Qualities of the finished product are largely determined by the fiber content of the yarn and structure of the fabric.<br /><br />For a lightweight scarf, go with a laceweight yarn. For something a little heavier, a fingering weight and even heavier, a DK weight. (If you go any heavier, you're going to have a saddle blanket around your neck. Ask me how I know! <g>)<br />For a lightweight, warm scarf, consider a protein (animal) fiber such as wool, silk alpaca, etc., or combinations of the same such as Jaggerspun Zephyr Silk/Merino. Melody Superwash Wool or Harmony Laceweight Merino are also good choices for warm, lightweight scarves.<br /><br />For a lightweight, cool accessory with nice drape, tencel is a good choice and can be used for both knitting and weaving warp or weft. For something a little lighter, knit or weave with 5/2 perle cotton.<br /><br />By considering the structure, any of the examples above can be knitted or woven so that you have an airy scarf or one that offers more warmth and drape. Choose knitted or woven lace for an airy scarf, stockinette or twill for a heavier scarf. Change the gauge or sett to suit the fabric you desire.<br /><br />Knit or weave with the yarn of your choice and enjoy the process!Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-50775907016960359052011-09-04T14:08:00.003-05:002011-09-05T10:03:59.633-05:00Warping Board or Mill?I prefer a warping board as does at least one master weaver and another production weaver I know. They both have their place. If you have nowhere to mount a warping board, then a mill might be the answer. It has its advantages and disadvantages. For long warps with very little color change or for limited physical space, they are very good. You might consider a door frame with removable dowels if you have limited space. Just don't wind a warp over a door that you will need to enter or exit! When you've finished winding the warp, remove the dowels from the door frame. Be sure the dowels are of maple or oak or they will bend and break. Ask me how I know. If you can't do that, you might consider warping pegs as they are portable and inexpensive. These are good for short warps.<br /><br />The "tickets" to good selvages:<br /><br />Keep your weaving space midway between the breast beam and beater - known as the "sweet spot." It's where you get the best shed. Only weave for about an inch and advance your warp often. Don't try to get your money's worth from an advance of the warp by weaving as close as you can to the breast beam and as close as you can to the beater. Your selvages will show it when you take your warp off the loom. And here is the reason why: the arc of the weft is different at the breast beam than it is at the beater. So, narrow the space in which you weave.<br /><br />And <em>do not</em> fool with the selvages as you weave. It will loosen the tension on your selvages so that when you take it off the loom, the selvages will "wave" lengthwise.<br /><br />Strive for an even beat. Get in a rhythm with throwing and beating. When you get up from the loom, loosen your tension and tighten when you return to weave - unless you are going to come back in a few hours. Even then, when you sit down to weave, beat before you throw your next pick as the pick will have "traveled" ever so slightly toward the breast beam so that when you hold your weaving up to the light, the beat will be uneven - even after washing.<br /><br />Don't overload your bobbins as it puts pressure on the selvages. Throw evenly and, again, with rhythm. You will always have one selvage that is not as good as the other. It's universal as most of us are not ambidextrous.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-35069850466161251672011-09-04T14:04:00.002-05:002011-09-05T09:07:09.010-05:00More About ColorOnce upon a time, I didn't like yellow - or any derivative of it - like yellow orange, orange, yellow green, olive, etc.. I could not bring myself to include yellow, yellow orange, orange or even a bright turquoise in a handwoven garment. Something was missing from my fabrics and I really couldn't put my finger on it. After all, I was choosing colors that I loved that "went together." This must have seemed a problem to a lot of weavers as Marcy Petrini, friend and weaving teacher, taught a portion of one of her classes entitled "How to Make an Ugly Color Disappear." We were instructed to bring the colors that we liked the least. Everyone showed up with some fairly hideous colors, in my opinion at the time. (I have since taken a liking to all colors.) I took along a very shiny rayon of which I had space dyed in complementary colors, turquoise and orange. It even had the "benefit" of a little brown where it wicked in the middle. My thoughts were 'let's see what she can do with this.' (-: With a little twisting of yarns in the more conservative colors that I loved and in varying amounts, I was pleasantly surprised! The twist of yarn in the colors I loved was no longer dull but full of life! I planned a project with just a highlight of that shiny turquoise and orange and the fabric was so alive that I used up the remaining of the yarn in other projects and had to dye more!<br /><br />Since then, I have had opportunity to do a lot of testing with color and have found that I generally want a little spark or highlight in hand painted yarn so that the resulting fabric will be warm and friendly. If I don't add it into the colorway, I try to add it by using a highlight of mill dyed in the warp or a warm weft in a handwoven or knitting two together in a knit. In order to make life easier for times when I don't want to do a lot of color planning for the end fabric, I find it best to add a small section of highlight in the dye process, adding only a little so that the resulting fabric will have an appropriate amount of spark.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-49315620109760812642011-09-04T13:56:00.009-05:002011-09-05T09:05:15.323-05:00Color Tips for FiberWhat do a color wheel, a black and white copy machine, the Fibonacci series, beautiful photography, a beautiful yarn, a ride through an scenic area and a small hole in a piece of paper have in common? These can all be tools for study in color.<br /><br />In helping a weaver come up with some stripe sequences that were pleasing to her, I thought about my past experiences with color and "tools" I have used to design something pleasing. None of these are original or hard and fast rules. As for me, a lot of what I know about color is intuitive. But tools have helped my intuition out a lot of times!<br /><br />What would the world be without color? There are so many ways to use it in art that it can become somewhat confusing and a lot depends on the medium with which one works. Color is mixed differently depending on the medium, i.e., dye, type of dye, oils, acrylics, water color, fabric paint and even mixing as I have with the help of some computer software. <br /><br />Rules differ for various fiber techniques as well: weft has to be considered with weaving as prints need to be considered with quilting. Surface design requires knowing what color interaction is going to take place when one color is laid on top of another. Pattern weaving shows up better with a blending of color or tone-on-tone, if not a solid. Lace knitting shows up better in light colorways and/or ones with similar values.<br /><br />Invest in a good color wheel. Direct complementary colors are opposite on the color wheel and generally always look good together. Split complements probably work better to prevent colors from appearing gray or brown. Triads are as the name implies and make somewhat of a triangle on the color wheel and are very pleasing together, particularly in large pieces. Analagous colors are next to each other on the color wheel and can be blended in small pieces effectively. I have found in blending warps and/or wefts that the larger the woven piece, the more one can experiment with color. The same colors in a small piece can be overwhelming and confusing particularly in pattern weaving.<br /><br />I took a class from Donna Sullivan once who had us to do color wrappings of yarn on cardboard. It is a very interesting thing to do to design both symmetrical and asymmetrical stripes in neutrals from black to white, dark brown to beige, complementary colors, split complements, triads, etc. Use a strip of sturdy cardboard and apply double-sided tape to the back. Embroidery floss works great for this if you don't have a large palette of yarns. If you feel uncertain, Fibonacci series to the rescue! Without going into the history of Fibonacci, I will briefly say that it is a system that can be used to come up with a pleasing color blend or stripe by adding a number such as 1 with itself to equal 2, then 1 + 2 = 3, 2 + 3 = 5, 3 + 5 = 8, 5 + 8 = 13, etc. You may choose any of these numbers in sequence or out of sequence to design something that is generally always pleasing to the eye.<br /><br />Still something wrong? Take it to the black and white copy machine. There was a good article in "Handwoven" several years back and it contained a gray scale. Colors that are equidistant from either end of the scale work well together. Making a copy in black and white will give you the overall feeling of a color that is too dark or light for your sequence or if you have used too much of it or not enough. For example, a little yellow goes a long way. Sometimes, just 1 or 2 ends here and there of a highlight color will bring a fabric to life.<br /><br />If you can't seem to come up with inspiration, flip through a book of beautiful photography of scenery. Colors of nature are in good balance and always pleasing. Make a wrapping with the colors you see or even one portion of the picture. This is where a one-inch square hole cut in the middle of a piece of paper will come in handy. Move the paper around until you see the exact colors and proportions that are pleasing to you and make a wrapping. No books of photography? There are lots of sites online including Webshots with wonderful photography. Or it may be a good excuse to take a ride in a park near you or go for a walk. Take along your camera, a notebook, colored pencils or some embroidery floss. If you get caught without a camera, colored pencils or floss, write a word description such as intense sky blue. It may look different when you get home and pull your yarns together but chances are that you will like it a lot.<br /><br />Visit an art gallery and study the colors in good paintings. What makes them good? What is the balance and proportion of color? What attracts you to the painting? What color(s) surrounds each color?<br /><br />Or visit your stash of variegated or hand painted yarns that followed you home from some conference. Use the yarn as a jumping off point to design a beautiful piece of fabric. Pick up solids of some of the colorways that are in the colorway and design stripes featuring the hand painted yarn.<br /><br />You can also use the hole in the paper to view your wrapping when you're finished. Look through it with only one eye and block out everything else around the wrapping, i.e., zero in on it and at different angles.<br /><br />And, by all means, listen to music that inspires you whatever it may be. There's some color in there somewhere!Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-86372624315099973582011-09-04T13:36:00.001-05:002011-09-05T10:03:29.736-05:00Tips for Using Hand Dyed Weaving WeftsTo keep a "pure" color sequence wind the skeins off in the same direction, i.e., berry, coral, lavender, blue - not one, one direction and the other the opposite. Don't wind as above and on next skein wind the opposite - blue, lavender, coral, berry. It's a matter of turning the skein over. Tip: Lay them on top of each other matching the colorway and put them on the skeiner (one at a time) going the same direction. And, wind off in the same direction, clockwise or counter-clockwise.<br /><br />Wind all your bobbins at one time from the center and number sequentially starting at 1 for the last bobbin wound, then 2, 3, etc. back to the first bobbin wound. If you run out of a bobbin in the middle of the shawl, pull the end to the underside by about an inch. Overlap the beginning of the next bobbin by 4 or 5 warp threads and pull the end to the underside by about an inch.<br /><br />With this method you can almost predict how a chosen color will "track" by the width of your warp. To accent a color within the hand dyed yarn, follow these steps: measure the length of the color you desire to accent. Measure the length of the entire colorway from start to finish. If your accent color is 15-1/2" long, the entire length of the colorway is 62" and the width in the reed is 31", you may have a column effect. If you would like a shift in color, offset your warp by a couple of inches either way, i.e., 29" or 32".<br /><br />Or, you may just decide you like the random, unplanned look. Either way is a pretty effect.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-62270387051772297292011-09-04T13:14:00.013-05:002011-09-05T10:04:27.638-05:00Tencel Yarn Tips<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEierDfSHsYal_K1DlneyoIPkMMs0Sv2Wy7DSRF38p8dxQ7kHsvQ8jqFKDrs_eNCu1hRNgOtjMdgPS74YpOuAn55yhHzU9FBCV-hm_-49EKVR5Hfargw7vmS9VHH9tT_heVn0BdrMR-Ky_hM/s1600/RI16.jpg"><img style="MARGIN: 0px 10px 10px 0px; WIDTH: 46px; FLOAT: left; HEIGHT: 320px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648574257932573490" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEierDfSHsYal_K1DlneyoIPkMMs0Sv2Wy7DSRF38p8dxQ7kHsvQ8jqFKDrs_eNCu1hRNgOtjMdgPS74YpOuAn55yhHzU9FBCV-hm_-49EKVR5Hfargw7vmS9VHH9tT_heVn0BdrMR-Ky_hM/s320/RI16.jpg" /></a> Yarn spun from 8/2 Tencel fiber is a natural yarn manufactured from wood by-products in an environmentally friendly method. Tencel, like linen, has very little elasticity but is worth the extra effort for the heavy drape, wonderful sheen and silky hand and natural, cool comfort of cotton. Tencel is equally suited for weaving, knitting and crocheting.<br /><br /><em>Shown on the left is a scarf woven on a 8/2 tencel painted warp.</em><br /><br />If you are weaving with tencel, sett a little closer than cotton of the same weight. Advance often (every few inches)and do not fill bobbins as full as you would for another fiber. The weight of the bobbins pulling on the selvages can break the selvages. Some weavers double the outside 3 or 4 ends and/or use a floating selvage.<br /><br />Finish in the washing machine and dryer or as is appropriate for the fiber. If using a fringe it should be twisted or braided as an untwisted fringe will start to disintegrate after a few launderings. Don't be alarmed that it feels like cardboard when you remove it from the loom. It will transform in the water! Personally, I remove from the washing machine (cold, delicate setting) and hard press with a hot iron, first one side, then the other, overlapping as I press. Then, polish both sides by *ironing.* Hang to finish drying and be ready to receive the weaver's handshake.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-92230708749464650292011-09-04T13:11:00.003-05:002011-09-05T10:02:44.808-05:00Tips for Tying on a Dummy Weaving WarpThis is an adaptation of tying a bowline knot. Some say this is like the weaver's knot; others don't. I don't really care; it works and I think you'll like it.<br /><br />Make a 6 out of the yarn coming from the loom having the loose end on top of the 6. Yes, I made my 6 the other way!<br /><br />The yarn being tied on is the "rabbit."<br /><br />Now, for the fun part.<br /><br />The rabbit comes up the hole, around the tree and back down the hole.<br /><br />Grasp both ends of the "rabbit" yarn plus the end of yarn from the loom and pull. What do you know? A knot that will (k)not (; come loose.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-49851311846512409052011-09-04T13:08:00.005-05:002011-09-05T10:02:20.483-05:00Reasons for Tying a Dummy Weaving Warp<div>I have not always been sold on dummy warps and even made the comment one time that I knew the reason they called it a "dummy." I've changed my mind! Not only is it a good idea to tie a dummy warp to save time but to be able to weave to the very end of a hand dyed warp or use the ends for fringe with no waste. Here are other good reasons. When tying on, you can change the warp thread and sett. After weaving a dozen cotton towels, you might change to a fine wool and then weave some scarves, then maybe switch to linen and weave something else, resleying the reed each time. To change the appearance, use a different treadling sequence. (I will cover some of these possibilities at a later date. Other possibilities are to insert extra heddles when threading originally so that for subsequent warps a few changes can be made in the threading that will have maximum impact on the design. Borders can be changed by rethreading by leaving heddles on all shafts on both sides of the warp. Or if the original was woven with a border, remove and make a half hitch in front of the heddles; you can always add back in part or entirety at a later date. I will trying some of these tips myself in the near future and report back here on my progress. May just see how many items I can weave out of one warp and share pictures.</div>Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-76880956972929170132011-09-04T13:06:00.003-05:002011-09-05T10:01:46.489-05:00Storable Weaving Bobbins Tips<div>Need bobbins? The cardboard tube of a pant hanger can be cut to make 4-4" or 2-7" bobbins. Just wind a tight, even bobbin and don't get too close to the ends. They're cheap (-:, can be numbered and when you're finished with your weaving you can store the bobbins with a straight pin to hold the end in a zip-lock. I like to store my special novelty yarns in one bag, wools in another, towel yarns in another, etc. No more unwinding bobbins to have enough or buying more. And next time you want to weave towels, for example, look in your "towel bag" and start with leftover bobbins.</div>Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-80728398934537190382011-09-04T12:45:00.000-05:002011-09-04T12:45:36.820-05:00Weaving Treadling Options - Tromp as WritA good exercise and future reference can be had by simply weaving a long sampler on any threading. My background is in overshot and for that reason I refer to it often in the treadling options shown in these newsletters. However, don't stop there! Try them with any threading including twill and crackle as they are close family members of overshot.<br />
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The purpose of the exercise is not only to find out what treadlings you like but also the ones that work and the ones that won't for the threading you are using. Make careful notes including tagging the corresponding treadlings. You will go back to your sample time and time again.<br />
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This is the first in a series of treadling options and tips to be published for 4-shaft overshot. Many of you know the tromp as writ treadling but the first will cover the tromp as writ treadling and my method of treadling to insure that those just starting out will know the way I "think" overshot.<br />
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Four-shaft overshot consists of 4 blocks: A = 1 & 2; B = 2 & 3; C = 3 & 4 and D = 4 & 1. The blocks are threaded sequentially, i.e., A, B, C, B, C, D, and share a common thread between sequential blocks. Since looms vary from jack-style, counterbalance or countermarche, it is easier for explanation purposes to work with a direct tie-up, i.e., 1 treadle to 1 shaft. Think of covering the blocks or weaving the blocks when weaving the pattern rather than treadle numbers or treadle orders which really don't mean anything if you don't know what they are tied to. A tabby shot of 1 & 3 and 2 & 4 alternate with pattern shots. And, yes, I weave tabby with 2 feet! <g><br />
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In order to write a tromp as writ treadling for a pattern, begin on the right of the threading and work toward the left. If the A block (1 & 2) has 4 ends, treadle A (1 & 2) 3 times. If the B block is next and contains 6 threads (Remember that they share a common thread/2.), treadle B 5 times. For an example, I will use a jack-style loom since many weave with jacks. In order to weave or cover the A block (1 & 2), lift shafts 3 & 4 and cover or weave A (1 & 2). In essence, you subtract one from the number of ends that are in the block to obtain the number of pattern picks for a particular block. In fact, you can subtract or add picks to "square" the pattern remembering to keep the turning blocks an even number. The reason for this is that overshot pattern picks group together in pairs. When an uneven number of picks are woven in turning blocks, "ghost lines" will appear that look like errors. This is why it is better to write your own tromp as writ treadlings as many books including the book and pattern listed below are written differently.<br />
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In this and future treadling options, I will give you the treadling I take to the loom with me for the Mary Ann Ostrander pattern from M. Davison's A Handweaver's Pattern Book, page 146. Balance threading with the first 17 ends.<br />
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A1, B1, (C2), B1, A1<br />
D1, (C2), D1<br />
A1, B1, (C2), B1, A1<br />
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D1, C1, B1, A3, D3, C5, (B4), (C2), (B4), (C2), (B4), C5, D3, A3, B1, C1, D1<br />
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Continue weaving using tabby (1 & 3/2 & 4) and balance with the first 3 lines or follow the draft below and balance with the first 16 pattern picks. Remember to weave with tabby.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjykq_UtW8eUqa4ZbDr3wzAbGJB8iRudkuWvGiXhej9vCvUzBzMgJca-lQXzYchDUQveEm5pysVpbdO_hKHYbcnLHSYAUWtB9-pjlkmqPMrGONRQwF6oj8DPh7SN1QrBYFMby7XkWQtwS1T/s1600/HERITA7.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648209579954650722" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjykq_UtW8eUqa4ZbDr3wzAbGJB8iRudkuWvGiXhej9vCvUzBzMgJca-lQXzYchDUQveEm5pysVpbdO_hKHYbcnLHSYAUWtB9-pjlkmqPMrGONRQwF6oj8DPh7SN1QrBYFMby7XkWQtwS1T/s320/HERITA7.gif" style="cursor: hand; height: 320px; width: 317px;" /></a>Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-6568926886859004962011-09-04T12:44:00.000-05:002011-09-04T12:44:13.429-05:00Weaving Treadling Options - Echo/Tromp as WritPattern (2 colors of same size) and tabby <br />
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There are 4 blocks in this 4-shaft overshot treadling: <br />
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Blocks A B C D <br />
Color 1 1 & 2 2 & 3 3 & 4 4 & 1 <br />
Color 2 2 & 3 3 & 4 4 & 1 1 & 2 <br />
Tabby Tabby Tabby Tabby <br />
Color 1 1 & 2 2 & 3 3 & 4 4 & 1 <br />
Color 2 2 & 3 3 & 4 4 & 1 1 & 2 <br />
Tabby Tabby Tabby Tabby <br />
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Tromp as Writ: <br />
A1, B1, (C2), B1, A1 <br />
D1, (C2), D1 <br />
A1, B1, (C2), B1, A1 <br />
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D1, C1, B1, A3, D3, C5, (B4), (C2), (B4), (C2), (B4), C5, D3, A3, B1, C1, D1 <br />
Balance with the first 3 lines. <br />
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Here is just an inkling of how it appears. To show the entire treadling would require a large amount of room but am sure this will give you an idea of the elongation of the pattern. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmqZzOsnf4z0yYV32cRnGE9-V4McbqUQsuxTPK-3eOY5PQP-qCYSIC4M4wgUT6k2Dd77_b-vMYBl-9qMIwR-M-Wjkusx3SwU9gGmcdUIJrouHjsQmYjp_lxnCCtrEGVy0WvRj8hOpRMBK/s1600/HERITA8.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648215779646843826" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqmqZzOsnf4z0yYV32cRnGE9-V4McbqUQsuxTPK-3eOY5PQP-qCYSIC4M4wgUT6k2Dd77_b-vMYBl-9qMIwR-M-Wjkusx3SwU9gGmcdUIJrouHjsQmYjp_lxnCCtrEGVy0WvRj8hOpRMBK/s320/HERITA8.gif" style="cursor: hand; height: 320px; width: 175px;" /></a> Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-7702492934466405372011-09-03T15:18:00.009-05:002011-09-05T10:01:08.985-05:00Calvary Twill Weaving PatternCalvary twill© - may be used for personal use only and not copied for resale.<br />Repeat the first 20 ends and balance with one end on shaft 1.<br />Note: two repeats of the design are included in order to see the 3 crosses on the hill.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2X2OUFBXJ5Nc1waAyIKxQyoEHjWcxhjn-Xe1FrluaQTV1VNl_5olK7w5m-5hm-4F4OxVWrs_m-JIhcSapVjDsOGTr85iEKelu36uwcbBQZdMBU05fF81X7E1ZCRaTNipgKQE59FgP2iR/s1600/HERITA11.gif"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 260px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgH2X2OUFBXJ5Nc1waAyIKxQyoEHjWcxhjn-Xe1FrluaQTV1VNl_5olK7w5m-5hm-4F4OxVWrs_m-JIhcSapVjDsOGTr85iEKelu36uwcbBQZdMBU05fF81X7E1ZCRaTNipgKQE59FgP2iR/s320/HERITA11.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648230522397330066" /></a>Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-88363761988434545862011-09-03T15:11:00.004-05:002011-09-05T10:00:39.773-05:00Cocoon Jacket SchematicsWidth in the reed was 27 inches and I actually wove 40-3/4 inches for the 2 panels and allowed enough for fringe on the ends of about 4 inches on each end and used loom waste for the last fringe. My warp was 3 yards long. Finished measurements of each panel was 21 inches X 38-1/4 inches. This would depend entirely on your yarn, finishing, etc. <br /><br />After you have woven and finished the panels, place the panels side by side and make an overcast stitch for 25 inches. Now, match the fringe of the front and back on the sides and overcast for 11 inches. <br /><br />Of course, you can always make the panels wider and longer/more narrow for size. If you made them very long you would, basically, have a Hopi jacket. You can also do this on the machine just catching the selvages. When you put it on, the ends fold back so that you have this pretty lapel and fringe. If you use stripes in your warp it is very slimming from the back and the stripes on the front run kind of bias. Or use your hand dyed colorway for the warp and weave off with a tone-on-tone or solid so that the color runs vertically on the body. If you like, embellish the lapel with surface design and beading or a special pin.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqWHTjf1kvdqhr9cUE9tCS8D8dJwWIq279RxL80PwENE19pVjGghMHHg9x_ucR190bsmQnvW3D7HQxi0-vgVMH0SCoIa7PgwkX318X50EOUU1RtqPK1pqxXTw5uZkdBqg8yKizyv7eGs5Q/s1600/CocoonJacketFrontf.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 270px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqWHTjf1kvdqhr9cUE9tCS8D8dJwWIq279RxL80PwENE19pVjGghMHHg9x_ucR190bsmQnvW3D7HQxi0-vgVMH0SCoIa7PgwkX318X50EOUU1RtqPK1pqxXTw5uZkdBqg8yKizyv7eGs5Q/s320/CocoonJacketFrontf.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648229588641929506" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr7Kn6CQplkJZaAQg0z1fel-n3mmQX3WAV7M3YhQ8iFIGNW2nVeC8SdiDsDx3m7FoUgLlx90uZ1ZgpKb615TfdTXDD9RganNryTYRJXQemltnrz_yDIoDaTLhz1XLAod0jXqV8NpyJH6TQ/s1600/CocoonJacketBackf.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 292px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr7Kn6CQplkJZaAQg0z1fel-n3mmQX3WAV7M3YhQ8iFIGNW2nVeC8SdiDsDx3m7FoUgLlx90uZ1ZgpKb615TfdTXDD9RganNryTYRJXQemltnrz_yDIoDaTLhz1XLAod0jXqV8NpyJH6TQ/s320/CocoonJacketBackf.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648229593131525522" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYpHW-E0c6yowXydPNgp5Xfdsi8PzKKOsf_ObsDD58tJvXEAKbClSdcGVN2ZxvEvJ0wpiIK2htH3Vd3X70jtXmjQk6u9vwDNl0rI2ein0wHGFL9oKKdoXQPrOJEWvxnkdc5tcUrBNcatro/s1600/CocoonJacketSidef.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 210px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYpHW-E0c6yowXydPNgp5Xfdsi8PzKKOsf_ObsDD58tJvXEAKbClSdcGVN2ZxvEvJ0wpiIK2htH3Vd3X70jtXmjQk6u9vwDNl0rI2ein0wHGFL9oKKdoXQPrOJEWvxnkdc5tcUrBNcatro/s320/CocoonJacketSidef.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648229593843510290" /></a>Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-21279304670561902072011-09-03T15:00:00.012-05:002011-09-05T09:59:40.502-05:00Surface Design<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLN69HpoDbshbMDk0iIeJfwQ940UClVbfmOYUnnvDiRepWEsJKoskEI4qQgT88KeIzZeP1Ud9KwMZJ2wGz6IOfFXdPY84Y1DdGjU6i22YCO433BADzbAX7ginXtJx9j_Tp3Wp2vFNbl_qM/s1600/AM6.jpg"><img style="float:left; margin:0 10px 10px 0;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 42px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLN69HpoDbshbMDk0iIeJfwQ940UClVbfmOYUnnvDiRepWEsJKoskEI4qQgT88KeIzZeP1Ud9KwMZJ2wGz6IOfFXdPY84Y1DdGjU6i22YCO433BADzbAX7ginXtJx9j_Tp3Wp2vFNbl_qM/s320/AM6.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648889894447744930" /></a>Are you a weaver with shaft envy? Have 4 shafts and want 8 or more? Not a weaver? Envy no more; you can add depth of texture, color and design with fabric paint. <br /><br />The scarf above was woven on a Atlantic Moonglow silk/rayon painted warp and weft of dark teal 8/2 tencel. Although, there are a lot of ways I could have surface-designed this scarf, I chose the easiest as my goal was to enhance the depth of texture and color; I was not striving for complete coverage as I wanted the structure and painted warp to be dominant. <br /><br />In order to surface design properly, you first need a surface design board on which to work. The pad helps the fabric to accept the paint. My board is approximately 17" X 25" and layered with plywood, wool carpet padding and topped with plain muslin stretched, stapled and taped to the back. A temporary surface design board can be made with insulation foam, quilt batting, muslin and packing tape. Use an additional piece of fabric over your surface design board as you will use this again.<br /><br />List of materials for this process:<br />Flexible printing plate<br />Foam core, wooden blocks or corrugated cardboard<br />AND/OR Speedy Stamp or EZ Cut Stamp Kit (includes cutting tools)<br />Speedy Stamp Blocks<br />Resist forms like berry baskets, large screen wire. Look around and you will see textured items in a whole new light.<br />Soft rubber brayer<br />Versatex printing ink (I used black as it will work on almost anything.)<br />Extender<br />Lumiere fabric paint in a metallic if desired <br />Freezer paper, plastic spoons<br />Prepare the fabric you plan to surface design by washing or wet-finishing suitable for the fabric and finish. I recommend Professional Textile Detergent (gift with purchase through September 30, 2008). Do not use fabric softener or dryer sheets prior to surface-designing. You may do so afterwards if you like. <br /><br />Freezer paper works well as a place to mix fabric paint for applying to a brayer. Take out a little extender and place on the freezer paper. Add some printing ink and mix with a spoon. No specific amounts are required; use mostly extender with a little paint. You will get the feel for it after working with it. The extender will keep the fabric supple; additionally, on light colored fabrics will lighten the color, i.e., lots of extender and dab of paint will give a pastel on white. Roll just a little bit on the side of the paper with the brayer until you have an even coat on the brayer and apply to stamp. Place your scarf or piece to be surface-designed on the design board and stamp. Finely detailed commercial stamps will work but not as well as one you carve. Hand-carve your initials or logo for a one-of-a-kind look. If you'd rather not carve or want to try something additional, you can use flexible printing plate, cut into different shapes, peel off the back and adhere to a base like foam core, wooden block or corrugated cardboard to create your own stamp.<br /><br />I generally surface-design one side of a scarf with Versatex/stamps and go back over it with highlights of copper using a clean brayer and resist forms. Stir and pour out a little Lumiere onto clean freezer paper. Place your resist(s) over the item to be surface-designed and roll the brayer directly over it. (Before you do this, take a deep breath and hold it. <g>)<br /><br />Allow one side of your fabric to dry 24 hours and then surface-design the other side. Dry for another 24 hours and heat wet with a dry iron. Cover with a pressing cloth and set your iron on high and press for 30 seconds on every piece of the fabric. Some toss it in the dryer but I have more confidence with the iron. After that, it is set and can be washed, fabric softener added, etc. <br /><br />There are many other options you can use with fabric paint such as stencils, silk-screening, transfers or mono-prints, etc., but this method is easy and effective with any fabric and especially handwovens.<br /><br />It takes a little courage the first time you print onto handwoven fabric but is quite addictive after the first time as the depth of texture and color is further enhanced. If you're a little nervous, try it on commercial fabric first - and I think you will want to keep the commercial fabric for a quilting project. <g><br /><br />Source of supplies:<br /><br />Some local art supplies have stamp kits, additional blocks and printing plates. However, I was unable to find Versatex or Lumiere locally and purchased it from Dharma Trading Co., San Rafael, CA.<br /><br />This should be called the everything scarf. <g> The warp was natural tencel and the weft was taupe 8/2 tencel. After wet-finishing, I laheria dyed it in a 25% solution of Cerulean blue. Then it was surface-designed the first time with textile paints in copper and a midnight blue using a brayer, stencils and stamps that I either drew and cut or purchased. Then it was discharged where you see the white lines. There appeared to be a lot of bleach left in the neutralizing bath which bleached the background and so I surface-designed again so that the scarf has many layers of texture and color. This scarf was surface-designed at a workshop for our guild taught by Debbie Stringer, fellow guild member, and me. The process was fascinating.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpvAeYrquPxieEKWM8wYCP7qOJ2zsbpkx2HAOZ5LryrjN-93ZTAPVFuYNw6Wb3mZsevIGATwT4Uwql8DpQfjNJja94F_aZdGXle3qpXLNLi_1gWoaRAqgjcV-eU2Led6K0nFWjNWaPeYC5/s1600/SurfaceDesign1F.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 320px; height: 286px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpvAeYrquPxieEKWM8wYCP7qOJ2zsbpkx2HAOZ5LryrjN-93ZTAPVFuYNw6Wb3mZsevIGATwT4Uwql8DpQfjNJja94F_aZdGXle3qpXLNLi_1gWoaRAqgjcV-eU2Led6K0nFWjNWaPeYC5/s320/SurfaceDesign1F.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648227575439676402" /></a>Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-27080064186523319382011-09-03T14:48:00.008-05:002011-09-05T09:55:01.147-05:00Weaving Treadling Options - Crackle SnippetRecently, I pulled out the Crackle sampler I wove several years ago as part of Teaching and Learning through Correspondence with HGA and thought I would share a few pictures of my treadling option favorites or "snippets" from the sampler. Samplers have taught me a lot about pattern weaving. I encourage you to warp your loom with 3 to 5 yards and at least 3 repeats, thread up with twill, Crackle or Overshot and find out what works and what doesn't.<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijcSAH2Y4zF_tAkW-lMv9NlODGMO7fwdxhbg5XqRfFW-V_GVgvPabeU42g-T5qPPQ5XW-d-rp9leyQ3GADcNGNOr_Ks-AelI3ltG9krbaTKt1PhzjQpZsSXvGJS8f4ogTEA5vzpdxhIb7s/s1600/classic-crackle-8.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 250px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEijcSAH2Y4zF_tAkW-lMv9NlODGMO7fwdxhbg5XqRfFW-V_GVgvPabeU42g-T5qPPQ5XW-d-rp9leyQ3GADcNGNOr_Ks-AelI3ltG9krbaTKt1PhzjQpZsSXvGJS8f4ogTEA5vzpdxhIb7s/s320/classic-crackle-8.jpg" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648223156152329154" /></a><br /><em>8-shaft Classic Crackle</em><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtFpVQe0hgHCb8RAoU46flMi7tjhnDJ26b5mzxN-jc7afMqP_F77MprdgcGouaap6NKLBQg6IOtShWx1sn34fQheWs1h5A3inkDiU-UPWDpwBYFrvlQOACizCXWcU0JRSMk7I5vmGjq16S/s1600/newsle1.gif"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 100px; height: 91px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtFpVQe0hgHCb8RAoU46flMi7tjhnDJ26b5mzxN-jc7afMqP_F77MprdgcGouaap6NKLBQg6IOtShWx1sn34fQheWs1h5A3inkDiU-UPWDpwBYFrvlQOACizCXWcU0JRSMk7I5vmGjq16S/s320/newsle1.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648223558846229858" /></a><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggiQeH-y4FajWZX7eDccM04GfgsDAvauPJQscc0x_PlX-vhb2P3NKO6xMiEiwXRjI6hSvMaqqlLyo22lvULElGd1Qpfl0oI1lJTQ55n1hMGi8i3IuUzP7Y40H-L2g3EpseyqZIJ7AgLgQn/s1600/newsle3.gif"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 100px; height: 82px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggiQeH-y4FajWZX7eDccM04GfgsDAvauPJQscc0x_PlX-vhb2P3NKO6xMiEiwXRjI6hSvMaqqlLyo22lvULElGd1Qpfl0oI1lJTQ55n1hMGi8i3IuUzP7Y40H-L2g3EpseyqZIJ7AgLgQn/s320/newsle3.gif" border="0" alt=""id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5648223761148920050" /></a><br /><br />The pattern above is threaded in Crackle/Pointed Twill fashion. It could just as well have been threaded using any other twill fashion. Threading for blocks: A=1232; B=2343; C=3454; D=4565; E=5676; F=6787; G=7818; H=8121. A transition thread was threaded between blocks. Each block was threaded 3 times. There are 8 blocks in both threading and treadling (shown below in the manner the blocks are treadled).<br />Two ground wefts, one pattern weft.<br />Legend: GW=Ground Weft; A through H=Block; P=Pattern Weft<br /><br />Block A<br />H-GW1<br />A-PW<br />B-GW2<br />A-PW<br />H-GW1<br />A-PW<br />B-GW2<br />A-PW<br />-----<br />H-GW1 (Transition to next block.)<br /><br />Block B<br />A-GW1<br />B-PW<br />C-GW2<br />B-PW<br />A-GW1<br />B-PW<br />C-GW2<br />B-PW<br />-----<br />A-GW1 (Transition to next block.)<br /><br />Block C<br />B-GW1<br />C-PW<br />D-GW2<br />C-PW<br />B-GW1<br />C-PW<br />D-GW2<br />C-PW<br />-----<br />B-GW1 (Transition to next block.)<br /><br />Block D<br />C-GW1<br />D-PW<br />E-GW2<br />D-PW<br />C-GW1<br />D-PW<br />E-GW2<br />D-PW<br />-----<br />C-GW1 (Transition to next block.)<br /><br />Block E<br />D-GW1<br />E-PW<br />F-GW2<br />E-PW<br />D-GW1<br />E-PW<br />F-GW2<br />E-PW<br />-----<br />D-GW1 (Transition to next block.)<br /><br />Block F<br />E-GW1<br />F-PW<br />G-GW2<br />F-PW<br />E-GW1<br />F-PW<br />G-GW2<br />F-PW<br />-----<br />E-GW1 (Transition to next block.)<br /><br />Block G<br />F-GW1<br />G-PW<br />H-GW2<br />G-PW<br />F-GW1<br />G-PW<br />H-GW2<br />G-PW<br />-----<br />F-GW1 (Transition to next block.)<br /><br />Block H<br />G-GW1<br />H-PW<br />A-GW2<br />H-PW<br />G-GW1<br />H-PW<br />A-GW2<br />H-PW<br />-----<br />G-GW1(Transition to next block.)<br /><br />This requires a little concentration to weave but a lot of fun and worth the effort. In the right weight materials, such as 8/2 tencel, it would make a nice shawl or, in a heavier yarn, a nice jacket fabric.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-5821077674388607022011-09-03T14:45:00.003-05:002011-09-05T09:53:39.555-05:00Weaving Treadling Options - Feather StitchFeather Stitch is a treadling option that Barbara Miller shared with me and basically, it uses two pattern shots to one of tabby. For a contemporary feel, use a dark warp and tabby in size 8/2 tencel, for example, and bright pattern weft such as 5/2 perle cotton. Follow twill sequence as follows:<br />2-3 Pattern (P)<br />2-4 Tabby (T)<br />2-3, 3-4 P<br />1-3 T<br />3-4, 4-1 P<br />2-4 T<br />4-1, 1-2 P<br />1-3 T<br />1-2 P<br />Repeat.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-4138835729900410282011-09-03T14:44:00.002-05:002011-09-05T09:53:06.373-05:00Weaving Treadling Options - Honeycomb FashionLearned from Barbara Miller - my overshot mentor<br /><br />This is a fun treadling option to use on a lot of threadings but I love it treadled on a overshot threading. Cells are woven in a finer thread; may I suggest 8/2 tencel? And the outline should 4 to 5 times larger than the cell thread. A suggestion would be to use black 8/2 tencel for warp and ply the same in about 4 or 5 strands for the outline. For a more interesting fabric, use 3 or 5 (or other odd number) bright colors of 8/2 tencel for the 4 blocks of cells. The colors will show up in different blocks. This makes a great purse fabric. It may need lining for stability and to protect the floats on the reverse side.<br /><br />Pattern Blocks or Cells<br /><br />A - 1, 3 & 4 (no 2)/1, 2 & 4 (no 3)<br />B - 1, 2 & 4 (no 3)/1, 2 & 3 (no 4)<br />C - 1, 2 & 3 (no 4)/2, 3 & 4 (no 1)<br />D - 2, 3 & 4 (no 1)/1, 3 & 4 (no 2)<br /><br />Weave as follows:<br /><br />1 & 3 - Outline<br />2 & 4 - Outline<br />Block A (from above.) Repeat 5 times (or no less than 3 times.)<br />2 & 4 - Outline<br />1 & 3 - Outline<br />Block C (from above.) Repeat 5 times (or no less than 3 times.)<br /><br />Take-up in both warp and weft are great in this treadling order. Change color as you change cells. Alternate treadling of 2 blocks, all 4 or A & C; then B & D. Try 3 cell colors on 4 blocks. Try 1 shot of tabby rather than 2 before and after cells.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-310434350526603420.post-23257477634525139132011-09-03T14:42:00.004-05:002011-09-05T09:52:30.440-05:00Weaving Treadling Options - More Summer & WinterOccasionally, I feel a reminder is in order of how I "think" Overshot.<br /><br />Four-shaft overshot consists of 4 blocks: A = 1 & 2; B = 2 & 3; C = 3 & 4 and D = 4 & 1. The blocks are threaded sequentially, i.e., A, B, C, B, C, D, and share a common thread between sequential blocks. Since looms vary from jack-style, counterbalance or countermarche, it is easier for explanation purposes to work with a direct tie-up, i.e., 1 treadle to 1 shaft. Think of covering the blocks or weaving the blocks when weaving the pattern rather than treadle numbers or treadle orders which really don't mean anything if you don't know what they are tied to. A tabby shot of 1 & 3 and 2 & 4 alternate with pattern shots. And, yes, I weave tabby with 2 feet!<br /><br />This treadling, like the others, is on a Overshot threading. And I learned this treadling from Barbara Miller.<br /><br />1 Pattern weft (P) and 1 Tabby weft (T)<br /><br />Repeat each block 3 times starting with Block 1, Block 2, Block 1, etc.<br /><br />Block 1 Block 2<br />A-1 & 2 (P) C-3 & 4 (P)<br />1 & 3 (T) 1 & 3 (T)<br />B-2 & 3 (P) D-4 & 1 (P)<br />2 & 4 (T) 2 & 4 (T)<br />B-2 & 3 (P) D-4 & 1 (P)<br />1 & 3 (T) 1 & 3 (T)<br />A-1 & 2 (P) C-3 & 4 (P)<br />2 & 4 (T) 2 & 4 (T)<br />Variation of above - Repeat blocks in a 4X, 2X, 4X, 2X, 4X sequence.<br /><br />Block 1 Block 2<br />B-2 & 3 (P) D-4 & 1 (P)<br />C-3 & 4 (P) A-1 & 2 (P)<br />1 & 3 (T) 1 & 3 (T)<br />C-3 & 4 (P) A-1 & 2 (P)<br />B-2 & 3 (P) D-4 & 1 (P)<br />2 & 4 (T) 2 & 4 (T)<br /><br />One could spend quite a while on Summer and Winter and not get through exploring!<br /><br />Update: for picture examples of this type treadling on a Crackle threading, see Overshot and Other Pattern Weaving.Margaret at Heritage Yarnshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05991754681733717767noreply@blogger.com0